Baltimore Dining

Thanks to Chesapeake Bay (Native American for "Great Shellfish Bay"), Baltimore cuisine is understandably dominated by seafood, notably the blue crab. In Baltimore, whenever in doubt, consider crab cakes, but only after checking the market price. As for alternatives, Baltimore has restaurants to satisfy nearly every craving from gourmet continental to ethnic. Here is a sampling of favorites.

Bertha’s at 734 South Broadway (410-327-5795) is famous for “Eat Bertha’s Mussels” bumper stickers alluding to plump, tender and steamed delights, served with a choice of eight or so sauces including tarragon garlic butter. Also on tap: fresh seafood entrees, ales and Scottish teas. Afternoon tea (by reservation only) is served Monday through Saturday from 3 p.m. with pastries, scones and tarts, plus butter, jam and whipped cream.

The Black Olive at 814 South Bond Street (410-276-7141) on the cobblestone section in Old Fells Point makes a specialty of classic Mediterranean Greek whole grilled seafood, filleted tableside and drizzled with Black Olive fish sauce. Among small-plate specials is Village Pie, filled with Greek cheeses, greens and herbs. Lunch options include Grilled Octopus Salad, Grilled Sardines in Grape Leaves, Mussels in Ouzo, and Makaronada (lamb chunks over pasta topped with shaved kefalograviera).

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar at 720 Aliceanna Street (410-332-1666) next to Marriott Waterside at Inner Harbor East provides more than 100 wines by the glass from a list (organized by grape variety) that changes twice weekly, with many vintages from boutique producers. Meats range from a 20 oz. bone-in New York Strip to Australian Lamb Chops, and seafood includes Crispy Lump Crabcakes with roasted red pepper and lime butter. Signature baked potatoes are dressed with leeks, jalapenos, cream and cheddar, and desserts include Chocolate Surprise.

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Ikaros Restaurant at 4805 Eastern Avenue (410-633-3750) and owned by brothers Theodosis and Xenophon Kohilas (natives of the island of Ikaria) has served value-priced authentic Greek dishes in generous portions at the same location since 1969. Comfort classics include braised meats, rice dishes, and Greek meatballs, plus Ikaros Seafood in Phyllo, sort of a seafood strudel with backfin crabmeat and fresh flounder.

Marconi’s Restaurant at 106 West Saratoga Street (410-727-9522) and a Baltimore institution since 1920 serves continental cuisine in a high-ceiling, crystal chandelier, and gilded mirror atmosphere once frequented by H.L. Mencken. Fare includes three kinds of sweetbreads prepared in grand Escoffier style. Marconi’s won an "American Classics" award from the James Beard Foundation for having “withstood the test of time.” Signature dish Lobster Cardinale has the split shell filled with its own meat in sherried cream sauce.

Mo’s Crab and Pasta Factory at 502 Albemarle Street in Little Italy (410-837-1600), with five other locations including East Point and Glen Berne, has the Chesapeake Bay region’s largest seafood menu. Appetizers include oysters, and more, on the half shell and Crab Ravioli. Two dozen entrees include Hot Steamed Crabs, Fried Crab Fluff, Backfin Crabcakes broiled or fried, Cajun Scallops with mustard, and whole Maine Lobster.

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Mt. Vernon Stable & Saloon at 909 North Charles Street (410-685-7427) specializes in baby back ribs imported from Denmark, along with barbecue chicken, burgers, Tex-Mex entrees and daily specials. The downstairs bar is open until 2 a.m. daily.

Obrycki’s Crab House at 1727 East Pratt Street (410-732-6399) has served Maryland seafood and steamed crabs in a casual atmosphere since 1944. Starters include Obrycki’s Savory Crab Soup and Deviled Crab Balls, while entrees range from Broiled Flounder to Shrimp with Backfin Crab broiled and served with drawn butter. Obrycki’s also ships menu selections

Rusty Scupper Restaurant at 402 Key Highway (410-727-3678) serves fresh seafood, beef and pasta with an Inner Harbor panorama from a bi-level cedar and glass dining room that has upstairs pool tables with a bar. A Jazz Brunch with complimentary champagne is served every Sunday from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m.

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Sabatino’s Italian Restaurant at 901 Fawn Street (410-727-2667), owned by the same family for more than a half century, turns out homestyle central and southern Italian fare in a casual setting for lunch, dinner and late-night feasting. Specialty dishes include home-made pastas, Veal Francese, Shrimp Renato and Bookmaker’s Salad, with shrimp and Genoa salami and famed for its house dressing.

Victor’s Cafe at 801 Lancaster Street (410-244-1722) is a two-story restaurant with an eye-popping view of the Inner Harbor serving Maryland cuisine with international flair. Designer pizzas and pastas and the Sesame Orange Roughy are popular along with Chicken Marsala and Veal Picatta.

Wharf Rat – Camden Yards at 206 West Pratt Street (410-244-8900) provides English-style pub atmosphere along with full-service dining and an exhibition brewery. A menu with Golden Fish and Chips, sandwiches and meatloaf can be washed down by any of a dozen Oliver Ales, or several guest draughts on tap, with special tastings and tours daily until 7 p.m.

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